Turbocharge your Fireplace
the FAQ below, and How
Put that heat loss going right up your chimney back into your room, where it belongs. The fireplace, on its own, is only half of an efficient heating solution.
heat into the room. Coping methods -
costly heating systems - are typically integrated during construction.
As homeowners, it's extremely rarely that we get a choice during
I have found many costly, inefficient and downright messy heat spreader solutions in the marketplace.
I have THE solution. The Fireplace Fan !!! (On sale since Jan. '09)
A surprising bonus is how it also adds a kiln dried aroma to the air, as it circulates the air in the room. Saving money on heating never smelled so good.
The Fireplace Fan uses a low power fan, less than 30 watts, to move between 1000 and 2000 watts of otherwise lost heat into the room (depending on the intensity of the fire as it burns).
The fan is also small enough that it makes less noise than an active fire, so it is hardly audible over the fire's natural sounds.
design is hassle free, fully adjustable and can be installed with no
modification to any enclosure that also uses a steel mesh style
firescreen, so that the air can move free through the fan, over the
fire, and then back out into the room.
Fireplace Fan Economics
When relying upon no other heat source, a standard residential fireplace will generate a 10 to 15 foot radius of comfort and areas in the room outside of that radius are left cold.
Most people use the house's gas/electrical heating system (or at least a space heater) to fill the gap.
The Fireplace Fan not only supplies that extra heat, but also moves it to the cold areas in the room at a mere fraction of the cost of extra house heat, so you can leave your house heat OFF.
Here's the COST BENEFIT:
Fireplace Fan uses 30 Watts
of electrical power.
Plug in space heaters use 1500 Watts of power.
Hot air comes out of both units.
More hot air comes pouring out of the Fireplace Fan than I've EVER seen from a plug in space heater.
you pay around 12 cents per kW/h for
electricity, which is the average, and use
the fireplace about 25 times per month,
instead of spending an extra $13.50 to
heat up your room, you would only have
spent 27 cents.
In reality, it's BETTER than that.
Here's a VERY detailed look at the
extra money I spent on my OWN heat.
Fireplace Fan PLANS!!!
parts for the Fireplace Fan (including the fan)
can all be purchased locally in any large town for
less than $60 from regular retail chain stores.
The Fireplace Fan Plans come complete with step by step directions, many diagrams showing parts measurements, including views of the parts and how they are connected to each other, and a list of part numbers (where available) from the bigger chain stores.
There is also a complete list of the tools needed to finish the project, making construction a snap.
Finally, a REAL, effective, efficient and affordable heating solution.
Get your Fireplace Fan Plans for only $7.95!!!
- D.P., Vancouver, BC
My living room is 10+ degrees F warmer when I'm using it.
- D.W., Wichita, KS
We had a big snow storm here in Oklahoma and I wanna tell ya that my insert worked great!!!!
I had a 12 year old install it with no problems.
Just wanted to thank you for keeping me warm... look forward to using it again next winter.
Thanks bunch... hope all is well with you!
Best wishes and may God bless and keep you,
PS... I was only kidding about the 12 year old :D
- J.T., Norman, OK
I spent most of my life in customer service. I delight in your
intelligent, personal reply with each one of my concerns
clearly dealt with. This is true customer service as it ought to be.
- W.J., unknown, US
Fireplace Fan FAQ
Can you mail to Kansas City?
I can ship to just about anywhere. The price of shipping will take the total cost up some, but that's expected to be minimal.
Are you capturing the carbon monoxide also? Should I have a carbon monoxide detector in the room just to be extra cautious?
not capturing here, we're circulating.
It takes the slightly warmer air that's already on its way up the chimney, pulls it in, drives it across the hottest area of the fire, and pushes it out into the room.
Because the air going through the pipe is positive pressured by the fan, carbon monoxide can't get in along the way through the pipe.
Remember, carbon monoxide is heavier than air. And this unit operates at nearly two feet above the floor. If anything, it will serve to mix up the air in the room, driving the hot air to the cold side and vice versa.
won't believe how much faster
this thing heats up your room than by using the fireplace on its own.
The hot air coming out and into the room has a subtle kiln dried
flavour to it, depending on the type of wood you're burning.
A very unique experience when operating at peak efficiency.
When you ship to me, what's included?
kit has exactly what you see in the original video:
Three legs, three pipe segments, two 90 degree connector sections, and the fan (already mounted with gasket on the input pipe segment), along with the screws, nuts 'n' washers that you'll need for assembly. Also already connected to the fan is the cord, switch and plug - all ready to go. The switch is much prettier than the one you see on my prototype in the video. And, these days, I've improved it by providing around 8 feet of cord.
On your end, you'll need nothing more than a 1/4" hex drive socket (I prefer the straight screwdriver handle type of hand drive to go with it, 1/4" shaft) to put the pipes together and a couple of box end wrenches (regular pliers will also do) to tighten up the legs at the correct height for your particular fireplace. Total time to assemble is around 15 minutes, and far easier than the typical Ikea plan.
As well, I customize the setup so that the fan is on the side that is handier for you to plug it in (based on where your power outlet is in relation to your fireplace). To complete the customization, so that it fits well into your fireplace, I have a little diagram that I will ask you to fill out. It involves a measurement or two of your enclosure. Very quick and easy part of the process, there.
How long will it last? How many fireplaces uses?
can't yet answer that in terms of a total lifespan figure (since mine
is still going strong). What I can say is that I've been running my
prototype (in the video) for around a year and a half now, with no sign
breakage, etc. in the back pipe, where it's hottest. More than 60
fires in that amount of time. Maintenance amounts to little more than
brushing the black layer off the back pipe once in a while, in
However, should your unit decide to act differently and wear out (or possibly develop a hole or something equally weird) where the back pipe would need to be replaced, all one has to do is cut a new length for the back, drill a couple of holes and screw it together again. Good to go for at least another year, judging by the lack of wear on mine. And that would amount to less than 8 dollars to repair it.
And the galvanized steel - when it gets hot - does it put out burnt galvanizing as a by product in the exhaust?
Nope. The fan blows room temperature air through it, constantly preventing the pipe from getting hot enough to break down the steel.
Won't the pipes go bad? The piping looks like regular venting exhaust pipe and/or dryer vent piping to vent outside.
is normal heating pipe, but not the kind used with your dryer.
It's the kind used with gas fired, forced air furnaces. The piping is 28/30 gauge galvanized steel, 4" diameter. And I've decided to thicken up the center pipe length, to 26 gauge; so it will last even longer.
Where can I get the fan?
If you decide to make it yourself, there is information in the plans on where to get the fan, both used and new. Personally, I get mine from an OEM electronics store in town.
If the seams are gapped in reverse direction of the airflow, it's going to pick up suction, or siphon the smoke as the air is being rushed out the exhaust, would it not?
As luck would have it, the air just outside the exhaust pipe has a higher density than the flame heated air going past the pipes at the seams. With constant positive pressure from the fan, air would push out through any gaps in the midsection of the pipes on its way through. As the flux rate of air is so high, with such a small difference in pressure, there simply isn't cause to push the air through high surface tension (and high air resistance), thin passages between the pipe overlap.